“Elementary, my dear Watson” –

 

 

Have you read in the newspaper recently about Undershaw, the house in leafy Surrey where Sir Arthur Conan Doyle (1859-1930) wrote The Hound of the Baskervilles?  Converted into a hotel, that has recently closed, it is under review now that a developer wants to divide it into four houses. I wondered about the garden. Conan Doyle originally designed the house and then collaborated with architect, Joseph Henry Ball. I feel sure the creator of Sherlock Holmes put some of his imaginative genius to use in the surrounding setting, since he built the house to help his wife convalesce from tuberculosis.

 

Now, with broadband, it is relatively easy to be a desktop Sherlock Holmes and begin to search for answers.  I logged on first to either http://www.old-maps.co.uk

and http://getamap.ordnancesurvey.co.uk to get a feel of the lie of the land in Hindhead and the views. Of course, since the house is listed, I could contact English Heritage to enquire about the garden. Then again, I might contact a member of Surrey Gardens Trust – one of their researchers will surely know.  But, within minutes, I find someone who cares about his backyard. There is an illustration in a book: “ A BALANCE OF TRUST - Hindhead is Safe!” by John Owen Smith, the story of fifty Years in the history of Haslemere and Hindhead, during which the National Trust is founded. More than this coincidental link with one of the country’s greatest conservation organisations, I discover (if I have the time) there is an opportunity to visit by contacting a local organisation, The Arts and Crafts Movement in Surrey, who plan to visit Undershaw in September 2006.

 

 

Gardening crosses boundaries. Yesterday, a friend telephoned. She has just been on holiday to Italy and wanted to know more about the Scot, Captain Neil McEacharn who created a spectacular garden near Lake Maggiore – Villa Taranto. She asked me to look him up on the internet. It helps of course to have an unusual name to research.  Again, within minutes, I was able to glean 3 pages of relevant information, some of which I will share with you, quoting from the Villa Taranto’s website:

“This botanical garden, of about 16 hectares, was created in 1931 by Captain Neil McEacharn, whose Mausoleum can be visited in the garden itself. He imported flowers and trees from all over the world and planted them here creating a wonderful scenery and beautiful views of the lake. The foreshortenings are perfectly studied and in each season you can admire different kinds of flowers. For example, in April you can see the mimosas and the 80.000 tulips in flower. In May the magnolias, in August the hortensias and 300 different kinds of dahlias besides many others. Every tree or flower has a label showing both its botanic name and its everyday name. There are also fountains with water-plants and greenhouses full of tropical plants.  Captain McEacharn donated the villa and its garden to the Italian State. The villa, which is not open to the public, belongs to the Prime Minister and is used for important international meetings.”

But there was more cyber information about this special man to connect the garden heritage of Italy, with both Scotland and Australia. His father, Sir Malcolm Donald McEacharn, bought Galloway House in 1909 having returned from Australia where he had initiated the frozen meat trade. The landscape is now listed, for in 1745 Lord Garlies, 6th Earl of Galloway built Galloway House for £2000 and planted 200,000 trees per annum in the barren hills around.  Successive Earls of Galloway improved the estate, surrounding it with a "Great Wall" built by French prisoners from the Napoleonic Wars. After an Eton and Oxford education, McEacharn’s son Neil influenced the exotic planting and design of the Galloway House garden, but eventually sold the estate to fund his Italian garden. At the outbreak of WWII he decided to move his family back to Australia, and on his death donated his collection of Australian paintings to Australia. In addition, there remains a plant heritage, with two magnolias named after him, one given the Award of Merit in 1968:

Magnolia “Neil McEacharn”
[M. x loebneri], cv. (Extr. Proc. p. 20, Jour. Roy. Hort. Soc. 87, 1962). Findlay, Jour. Roy. Hort. Soc. 88: 463 (1963), ‘with tree-like habit.’ flowers white, like var. stellata. Grown from seed sent by Captain Neil McEacharn about 1953. Jour. Roy. Hort. Soc. 93: 237 (1968), ‘covered in profusion with small white flowers...received the A. M. (1968).’ Hilliers Man. of Trees and Shrubs, Ed. 20 1973. ‘A cross between M. kobus and M. Stellata cv. Rosea. Raised at Windsor...’

Magnolia “Neil McEachern”
[M. stellata], cv. (Magnolia 20(1) [Issue 37]: 17, 1984). ‘Originated at Savill Garden, Windsor Great Park, England. Form with a flower similar to stellata, but making a very large shrub.’ John Bond, Crown Estate Office, The Great Park, Windsor, England (R.H.S. Journal, 1968).”

  

If plants are ephemeral, sometimes elements of hard landscape remain to give us clues as to the original design of a garden. I remember being taken, aged 5 or 6 years old, into the garden next door to our block of flats. Once a Victorian garden with ferns and pools, it was so overgrown, we could imagine that we were exploring in some dark continent, fearful of tigers and crocodiles. Today, I am still intrigued by the remaining craggy rocks, rhododendrons by a stream meandering amongst council houses built on the site, in Inner Park Road, off Wimbledon Common. Does anyone know the designer who put them there- are they Pulhamite rocks? Or could they possibly date back to the pheasantry that was established in that area of Wimbledon Park designed by the celebrated improver “Capability” Brown?

  

Talking of celebrities of yesteryear, the antiquarian Dr William Stukeley (1687-1765) was a great admirer of Sir Isaac Newton who occasionally invited him to sit and talk at Woolsthorpe under the apple tree, with a glass of wine.  Stukeley’s drawings are witness to his absorption with heritage, Roman and Celtic, in his surrounding landscapes, but he has also left some sketches of gardens, including Grimsthorpe Castle, which are invaluable to garden historians. Recently, an archivist discovered and revealed to Northamptonshire Gardens Trust members a previously unknown and detailed plan of Stukeley’s Grantham garden (long since built over). Later he moved to stone-built Stamford, in Lincolnshire (the first conservation town in the country and featured in many TV and film historical dramas.) He continued to be passionate about the design of his garden there, collecting relics of mediaeval churches and stained glass windows as garden ornaments, and it is said that he stole a nearby Eleanor Cross!  I thought the features shown in his sketches, including a hermitage, fountain and temple, had probably long since disappeared. So I was pleasantly surprised to see a few Latin inscriptions and gargoyles. In addition, close by a spring that likely supplied the water for his fountain, stands Charles Gate, an ornamented archway with rustic niches, in the boundary wall. The story is told that this is where the fugitive King Charles came in May 1646. So, a century later, in 1746, Stukeley thought it appropriate to design a suitable pediment with a Latin inscription above the arch to mark the anniversary.  Much of the garden has been changed and built over, but there remain sufficient layers of garden heritage to make it special, to influence, stimulate and educate the young children who play there, and offering every visitor a link to bygone times, events and remarkable people.

 

The complexity of garden heritage throws us many challenges and questions. It links fascinating individuals and families of history with beautiful, vibrant and romantic places and existing rare plants and trees. It is well worth caring about the unique landscapes where they grew up, lived, worked and gardened, to try to discover what inspired them, what problems they faced. Their creative imagination and their labours leave behind an enriching heritage that will help and prompt today’s gardening generations to do similar. Unless these gardens are recorded, they will eventually be lost.

 

How about being a garden detective in your own in your own ‘neck of the woods’, your own garden or suburb? How was it used in earlier centuries? Look out for any unusual local garden that triggers your imagination, and leads you to research its history – ask permission to take photographs or sketch, discover if there are any links to important designers, check with the UK Database of Historic Parks and Gardens. You might help to save the garden from inappropriate development… Your county gardens trust will advise. Settings can be as significant and as educational as the historic buildings they surround. There are, my dear Watson, AGT workshops to help you discover elementary avenues to go along, in order to research and record garden heritage. You do not need to be an expert … just curious and observant! Like Sherlock Holmes, it is both stimulating and rewarding to be a garden detective.

 

Steffie Shields

Lincolnshire Gardens Trust

July 2006

PS

Brenda Lewis, Surrey Gardens Trust, has kindly emailed to notify me that Ushaw House in Guildford , a superb Baillie Scott house and garden is the September 2006 destination for the Arts & Crafts Group visit and not Sir Arthur Conan Doyle's house in Hindhead of the same name. Many apologies…..